Sailor Nagahara Retirement

Sailor Nagahara Retirement (takenuri process)

Mr. Nobuyoshi Nagahara started working for the Sailor Pen Company 1947. After 64 years of dedicated service Mr. Nagahara retired in 2011. He’s created some of the most amazing nibs I’ve ever seen and used, he’s a innovator, a teacher, and often referred to as the god of nibs. The Naginata Togi was one of his first and most popular nibs and is the chosen to be used in this memorial fountain pen.

The Nobuyoshi Nagahara commemorative pen is made from bamboo and is finished in take-nuri. It’s a large pen measuring 19mm in diameter and 175mm in length when capped. The serial number will be visible near the tail end of the pen. The coolest part of the pen is the nib: it features Mr. Nobuyoshi Nagahara’s name in the style of Japanese calligraphy on a 21k gold nib.

Thank to http://fpgeeks.com

Takenuri process:

Preparation of surface	Shitaji-chosei	Prepare the surface of the pen with sand paper
Furring	Ji-tsuke	Smear on the surface the raw lacquer mixed with abrasive powder
Rubbing	Ji-togi	Make wet rubbing with waterproof paper or grind stone
Consolidation	Ji-gatame	Dry for the time it needs
First surface treatment	Sabi-tsuke	Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder
Dry rubbing	Kara-togi	Rub with grind stone
Second surface preparation	Sabi-tsuke	Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder
Dry rubbing	Sabi-togi	Rub with grind stone
First coating	Shita-nuri	Smear the raw lacquer on the whole body
Desiccation	Kanso	Dry for the time it needs in steam room
Node (knot) making	Fushi-tsuke	Model the knots like the natural bamboo with lacquer. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water
Roots first making	Nekko-tsuke	Model the root shape with lacquer like the natural bamboo. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water
Groove making	Tatemizo-tsuke	Make the bamboo grooves with the groove tool.
Second surface preparation	Sabi-tsuke	Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder
Branch making	Eda-tuke	Model with lacquer like the natural bamboo branchs. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water
Roots second making	Neko-tsuke	Model with lacquer like the natural bamboo roots. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water
Node (Knot) rubbing	Fushi-togi	Rub with grind stone
Second coat	Naka-nuri	Brush the second lacquer coat made of raw lacquer, extract of pine and iron rust mixture
Desiccation	Kanso	Dry as required in the steam room
Second coat rubbing	Naka-nuri-togi	Rub with magnolia charcoal
Paint rusting	Kesho-sabi-tsuke	Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder
Rubbing	Togi	Rub with magnolia charcoal
Overcoat	Uwa-nuri	Brush with a mixture of purified and pigmented lacquers
Desiccation	Kanso	Dry as required in the steam room
Overcoat rubbing	Uwa-nuri-togi	Rub with Paulownia charcoal
Node (knot) design	Fushi-gaki	Draw silhouettes like bamboo nodes with a special brush
Knot hole design	Goma-tsuke	Draw the holes of the nodes with a special brush
Lacquering the node (knot) areoles	Fushi-bokashi-nuri	Shade with fabric or cotton the dark lacquered parts of the nodes
Trunk sharpening	Do-jiri	Smooth the whole surface of the body with sharpener brush
First shading of the impressed lacquer	Suri-urushi-bokashi-zuke 1	Smear the raw lacquer with fabric or cotton.
Second shading of the impressed lacquer	Suri-urushi-bokashi-zuke 2	Smear the raw lacquer with fabric or cotton.
Polishing the impressed lacquer	Suriurushi-migaki	Polish with fabric or Japanese paper
Desiccation	Kanso	Dry as required in the steam room