Sailor Nagahara Retirement
Sailor Nagahara Retirement limited edition
Di seguito ( al momento solo in lingua inglese ) il procedimento che viene effettuato per produrre la penna Sailor Nagahara Retirement:
Preparation of surface |
Shitaji-chosei |
Prepare the surface of the pen with sand paper |
Furring |
Ji-tsuke |
Smear on the surface the raw lacquer mixed with abrasive powder |
Rubbing |
Ji-togi |
Make wet rubbing with waterproof paper or grind stone |
Consolidation |
Ji-gatame |
Dry for the time it needs |
First surface treatment |
Sabi-tsuke |
Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder |
Dry rubbing |
Kara-togi |
Rub with grind stone |
Second surface preparation |
Sabi-tsuke |
Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder |
Dry rubbing |
Sabi-togi |
Rub with grind stone |
First coating |
Shita-nuri |
Smear the raw lacquer on the whole body |
Desiccation |
Kanso |
Dry for the time it needs in steam room |
Node (knot) making |
Fushi-tsuke |
Model the knots like the natural bamboo with lacquer. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water |
Roots first making |
Nekko-tsuke |
Model the root shape with lacquer like the natural bamboo. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water |
Groove making |
Tatemizo-tsuke |
Make the bamboo grooves with the groove tool. |
Second surface preparation |
Sabi-tsuke |
Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder |
Branch making |
Eda-tuke |
Model with lacquer like the natural bamboo branchs. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water |
Roots second making |
Neko-tsuke |
Model with lacquer like the natural bamboo roots. Model with the spatula a mixture of raw lacquer, clay powder and abrasive powder with water |
Node (Knot) rubbing |
Fushi-togi |
Rub with grind stone |
Second coat |
Naka-nuri |
Brush the second lacquer coat made of raw lacquer, extract of pine and iron rust mixture |
Desiccation |
Kanso |
Dry as required in the steam room |
Second coat rubbing |
Naka-nuri-togi |
Rub with magnolia charcoal |
Paint rusting |
Kesho-sabi-tsuke |
Smear on the surface the lacquer mixed with abrasive powder |
Rubbing |
Togi |
Rub with magnolia charcoal |
Overcoat |
Uwa-nuri |
Brush with a mixture of purified and pigmented lacquers |
Desiccation |
Kanso |
Dry as required in the steam room |
Overcoat rubbing |
Uwa-nuri-togi |
Rub with Paulownia charcoal |
Node (knot) design |
Fushi-gaki |
Draw silhouettes like bamboo nodes with a special brush |
Knot hole design |
Goma-tsuke |
Draw the holes of the nodes with a special brush |
Lacquering the node (knot) areoles |
Fushi-bokashi-nuri |
Shade with fabric or cotton the dark lacquered parts of the nodes |
Trunk sharpening |
Do-jiri |
Smooth the whole surface of the body with sharpener brush |
First shading of the impressed lacquer |
Suri-urushi-bokashi-zuke 1 |
Smear the raw lacquer with fabric or cotton. |
Second shading of the impressed lacquer |
Suri-urushi-bokashi-zuke 2 |
Smear the raw lacquer with fabric or cotton. |
Polishing the impressed lacquer |
Suriurushi-migaki |
Polish with fabric or Japanese paper |
Desiccation |
Kanso |
Dry as required in the steam room |